Thursday, June 17, 2021

ADIDAS: BENCHMARK FOR SUSTAINABILITY

 

Adidas AG is a German multinational corporation, founded and headquartered in HerzogenaurachGermany, that designs and manufactures shoes, clothing and accessories. It is the largest sportswear manufacturer in Europe, and the second largest in the world, after Nike. It is the holding company for the Adidas Group, which consists of the Reebok sportswear company, 8.33% of the German football club Bayern München, and Runtastic, an Austrian fitness technology company. Adidas' revenue for 2018 was listed at €21.915 billion.

The company was started by Adolf Dassler in his mother's house; he was joined by his elder brother Rudolf in 1924 under the name Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik ("Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory"). Dassler assisted in the development of spiked running shoes (spikes) for multiple athletic events. To enhance the quality of spiked athletic footwear, he transitioned from a previous model of heavy metal spikes to utilising canvas and rubber. Dassler persuaded U.S. sprinter Jesse Owens to use his handmade spikes at the 1936 Summer Olympics. In 1949, following a breakdown in the relationship between the brothers, Adolf created Adidas, and Rudolf established Puma, which became Adidas' business rival.

The three stripes are Adidas' identity mark, having being used on the company's clothing and shoe designs as a marketing aid. The branding, which Adidas bought in 1952 from Finnish sports company Karhu Sports for the equivalent of 1,600 euros and two bottles of whiskey, became so successful that Dassler described Adidas as "The three stripes company"

For over 20 years, adidas has been a change leader in sustainability. They were the first to bring eco-innovations to the mass market, they led the industry with the first sustainability report, and have been listed in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI) every year since its creation in 1999. They are also a founding member of game-changing initiatives like Better CottonLeather Working Group, and Fair Labor Association.

In 1998, building on already existing initiatives, adidas developed its initial supplier code of conduct, now called Workplace Standards. The Standards were based on international human rights and labor rights conventions. They are contractual obligations under the manufacturing agreements adidas signs with all its suppliers. The 'Social & Environmental Affairs' team was established to ensure suppliers’ compliance with the company’s Workplace Standards. In 1998, they also adopted a comprehensive and detailed Restricted Substances Policy for product materials, prohibiting the use of chemicals considered as harmful or toxic. This was the first policy in the industry that clearly indicated test and pre-treatment methods for restricted substances. Some of the initiatives that were thus generated were the phase-out of PVC materials from the main product categories, again the first company in the textile industry to do so, as well as the introduction of new technologies to significantly reduce volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in footwear manufacturing by using innovative bonding technologies and water-based cement systems, both happening in 2000.

The factory in Scheinfeld, Germany, was the first in the industry to receive EMAS environmental management system certification. This was an important step in their efforts to reduce the environmental footprint of our facilities.

The year 1999 marked the beginning of the formal Stakeholder Engagement approach, as adidas joined the Fair Labor Association (FLA) as a founding member. Since its inception, the FLA has focused on creating long-lasting solutions for sustainable supply chains. Later, in 2005, the FLA accredited adidas’ monitoring program for the first time.

 

It was in a spirit of transparency and responsiveness towards its stakeholders that the company published its first Sustainability Report. Still today, adidas is the only company in the sporting goods industry which publishes a Sustainability update on an annual basis.

In the following year, adidas launched its Environmental, Health & Safety Guidelines, as well as the Guide to Best Environmental Practice. These are comprehensive and detailed standards for suppliers on handling, storage and disposal of chemicals, waste water treatment and effluents. As part of this, it was the first company in the industry to introduce a ban on six high-risk and hazardous chemicals used in our manufacturing facilities. The guidelines were published and several brands in the apparel and sportswear industry have asked for permission to use our guidelines when dealing with their own suppliers. That year marks the birth of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), of which adidas was the founding member. The BCI addresses the negative social and environmental impacts of mainstream cotton farming, such as excessive pesticide and water use. Better Cotton is grown in a way that reduces the amount of chemicals used.

Virtualisation became a strategic initiative for adidas. It allowed a reduction of the quantity of physical samples required to design and sell new products. With virtualisation, resources and money are saved by reducing material waste, transportation and distribution costs. And with fewer samples being flown around the globe, carbon emissions are also reduced! In that same year, adidas also spearheaded the introduction of Human Resources Management Systems in major footwear factories, a key step towards improved supply chain management. Adidas became a member of the Fair Factories Clearinghouse, an industry-leading compliance data-sharing platform, which Reebok had co-founded, as well as the Leather Working Group, key to the establishment of an audit protocol for all of their leather suppliers

In 2010 adidas voluntarily disclosed its global supplier factory list. While adidas was not the first in the industry to do so, but they raised the bar for the whole industry a few years later when, in 2010, as the Official Sponsor, Licensee and Outfitter of the 2010 FIFA World Cup South Africa™, adidas disclosed the list of factories involved with the production of World Cup products. They were the first and only FIFA sponsor to do so. Since then, they have disclosed the list of factories manufacturing 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil™ products, as well as the list for the London 2012 Olympic Games. Here as well, they were the first Olympic partner to disclose its supply chain for the Olympic Games.

2007 was also a cornerstone moment for the adidas brand, with the set-up of its product sustainability program, aimed at increasing the sustainability attributes of the brand’s global product offering. One of the earliest outputs of this new program was the adidas Grün collection, one of the very first adidas sustainable product ranges. The auditing program expanded its scope, as they started dedicating environmental audits at our supplier sites – based on a rigorous environmental audit protocol that includes chemicals management (risk management, handling, use and storage of chemicals). As of 2010, mills and dyehouses were included into the audit scope as well.

Adidas has been looking at the issue of fair wages since 2002 and continues to explore possible solutions that the whole industry might adopt. In 2011, 25 adidas suppliers in eight countries – Philippines, Indonesia, Mexico, Brazil, Vietnam, China, El Salvador and Thailand – participated in a Fair Wage self-assessment questionnaire. The assessments have helped to improve the way to monitor compensation and pay issues at supplier factories and have integrated the Fair Wage idea into the supplier training on Human Resources Management Systems.

Also, adidas was one of the founding members of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Initiative, launched to drive change in industry practices when it comes to responsible chemical management. In this framework they have committed to the phase-out of long-chain PFCs by no later than January 1, 2015.

The collection for the London 2012 Olympic Games was the most sustainable adidas collection ever produced. At the same time, adidas DryDye was launched: a new technology which eliminates the need for water in the dyeing process, therefore also reducing the use of chemicals. Within a year, we were able to achieve 1 million yards of DryDye fabric produced! Then adizero Primeknit hit the market, introducing a new way of making products with no textile waste.

In the supply chain, adidas introduced an SMS for workers project at one of the company’s main footwear suppliers in Indonesia to improve the communication between factory workers and management.

After the successful launch of the Element Soul shoe in fall/winter 2012, the Element Voyager shoe was brought to market in the summer season 2013. With 95% pattern efficiency, the Element Voyager is down to 5% waste. The complete Element Voyager shoe is made with environmentally preferred materials. In apparel, adidas produced a full activewear line featuring t-shirts, tanks, tights, skirts and shorts with 95% pattern efficiency (only 5% waste). Low Waste is an innovative way to create the products in a more intelligent way.

On top of that, all adidas Sport Performance footwear newly created for 2013 use sustainable components such as environmentally preferable materials In spring, adidas presents its '4 P' sustainability framework. The strategy is rooted in the company’s values and built on the achievements and learnings from previous years, while taking into account the societal landscape and future global trends.

Taking chemical innovation to the next level: in June, adidas announces a strategic partnership with bluesign technologies to further drive sustainable solutions in the company’s global supply chain. Furthermore, adidas commits to being 99% PFC free by no later than December 31, 2017.

In November, adidas celebrated more than 25 years of manufacturing in Indonesia, one of the key sourcing locations. This long history of manufacturing in the country is testament to the adidas sourcing strategy, which focuses on key strategic partnerships with its supplier base.

Saving ever more water thanks to DryDye: by the end of 2014 the company has produced 4 million yards of DryDye fabric, saving 100 million liters of water. In April, adidas announces a partnership with Parley for the Oceans, an environmental organization and collaboration network that raises awareness for the beauty and fragility of the oceans and implements comprehensive strategies to end their destruction. In June, in the surroundings of the United Nations Headquarters adidas showcases an innovative footwear concept born from this collaboration, the first footwear made with Ocean Plastic.

In September, the adidas joins the UN Climate Neutral Now initiative to promote a wider understanding of the need and the opportunities for society to become climate neutral.

adidas presents ‘Sport Infinity’, a research project led by adidas and funded by the European Commission, bringing together a variety of industry and academic experts. The aim of the project is to develop a material that can be endlessly recycled using a waste-free, adhesive-free process.

In December, on the occasion of COP21, adidas and Parley for the Oceans showcase strategic sustainability for the industry presenting an innovative footwear concept, the 3D-printed Ocean Plastic shoe midsole. Click here to watch a recap video from the event.

n April, adidas launches its Sustainability Strategy for 2020. Deeply rooted in the company’s core belief that through sport we have the power to change lives, the strategy translates the company’s sustainable efforts into tangible goals and measurable objectives until 2020.

adidas goes plastic-bag free in its stores: As of April, plastic shopping bags are removed from the company’s own retail stores globally.

In 2016, adidas ranks second in the Apparel sector, and fifth in the overall ranking out of 98 corporations in the newly launched Corporate Human Rights Benchmark (CHRB). Also, adidas ranks first in the KnowTheChain evaluation of forced labor in the global Apparel and Footwear sector.

adidas is awarded an unprecedented third re-accreditation of its social supply chain program by the Fair Labor Association, and is the overall winner, heralded as “‘Outstanding Achiever’ at Thomson Reuters Foundation’s Stop Slavery Awards.

adidas produces more than 1 million pairs of shoes made with Parley Ocean Plastic and calls on its global community to sign up for the adidas x Parley Run for the Oceans, a global movement that takes place for the first time on World Oceans Day 2017 to raise awareness for the state of the oceans.

adidas successfully delivers against its commitment to be 99% free of poly- and perfluorinated substances (PFCs) by no later than the end of 2017.

adidas commits to go plastic-free at adidas offices worldwide.

adidas launched its product take-back program in fall 2017. The program piloted in selected adidas stores in four key cities (New York, Los Angeles, London and Paris).

Run for the Oceans returns: In June, adidas and Parley for the Oceans are calling on their global communities to unite for the second consecutive year in one movement against marine plastic pollution and host over 12 major running events across six key cities including weekly running activities with 50 adidas Runners communities worldwide. The money raised has helped directly educate and empower 100,000 youth and their families who are living in coastal areas affected by plastic pollution to take action as part of the Parley Ocean School Program.

adidas creates more than 5 million pairs of shoes containing Parley Ocean Plastic.

100% of the cotton we sourced globally was 'sustainable cotton', that means cotton sourced according to the standards of the Better Cotton Initiative or oganic cotton.

adidas strengthens its commitment to tackling plastic waste with the reveal of Futurecraft.Loop - the first fully recyclable running shoe. It has been in the test phase since 2019. The market launch is planned for 2021.

adidas produces more than 11 million pairs of shoes using recycled plastic waste from beaches and coastal regions. compared to five million in 2018 and one million in 2017.

adidas and Stella McCartney presented the jointly developed prototype of a tennis dress made of bio-fabricated materials based on cellulose and protein prior to last year’s Wimbledon tournament.

Monday, May 20, 2019

A REVIEW ON APPLICATION OF BIOTECHNOLOGY IN THE PRE-TREATMENT PROCESSES OF TEXTILES


Introduction
Biotechnology can be defined as “the application of scientific and engineering principles to the processing of materials by biological agents to provide goods and services". The earliest evidence of biotechnology include baking of bread using yeast by the ancient Egyptians and brewing. Today enzymes have been used on a large scale in medicine, food analysis, genetically modified food, transgenic animals and plants and also in the domestic detergent fields. The discovery of chemical structure of DNA has led to genetic engineering, DNA finger-printing, rapid gene sequencing and host of related technologies such as process engineering, fermentation, enzymology, downstream processing, microbiology, biochemistry, process control, reactor design, immobilized cells and enzymes, biosensors, biopolymers and biotransformation
In textile application, the knowledge of specific action of enzymes-amylases for starch splitting began around 1857, when malt extract was used to remove size from fabrics before printing . The use of enzyme in pre-treatment processes of textiles has found much broader acceptence. At present the priority areas are scouring and bleaching of cellulosic fibres and carbonising, bleaching and shrink-resist treatment of wool. Enzymes have traditionally been used for stone washing and bio-polishing of cotton fabrics and garments. Also enzymes have been incorporated in detergents to remove fibre fuzz and brighten the colour of the fabric.
Enzymes are naturally-occuring proteins capable of catalysing specific chemical reactions and being catalysts, facilitate the reaction without being consumed. After catalysing the chemical reaction, therefore the enzyme is released and is able to catalyse another reaction-and so on. factors). The textile and clothing sector is now a major user of enzymes during manufacturing and after-care. Cellulases are widely used in textile application. Cellulases are high molecular colloidal protein catalysts in metabolic form and are commonly produced by soil-dwelling fungi and bacteria .


Mechanism of enzymes in cotton textiles
Fig 1, Synergistic action of enzyme on cellulosics 
Fig 2. Enzymatic Hydrolysis of cotton 
Fig 2.  shows the reducing and non-reducing end groups by the action of cellulase on 1,4-[3-glycoside bond of the cellulose molecule. [3-glucosidases hydrolase small chain oligomers, such as cellobiose into glucose. The three types of cellulase component act synergistically in degrading cellulose to glucose
Treatment of Cotton with Enzymes
Enzymatic desizing of cotton
Malt extract was used originally for the desizing of amylaceous sizes from the fabric. Later, around 1900, Diastafor was found more efficient for starch desizing. Rapidases were introduced in 1919 and cause the liquefaction of starch in compounds soluble in water. At present a variety of these products are available commercially. They are mainly based on amylopectic enzymes. These enzymes do not damage the cellulose. These enzymes are effective at various temperatures ranging from 20 to 115~ covering all means of applications . Now-a-days special attention is paid towards the development of simultaneous desizing and scouring in an alkaline medium replacing two-stage process.
The use of enzymes in mercerization
The effect and action of enzymes seems to be very limited because of the stronger conditions of alkali of mercerizing strength. Enzymatic hydrolysis is accelerated when mercerization is carried out without tension . The greater accessibility and lower crystallinity of cellulose mercerized without tension is a decisive factor in the enzymatic hydrolysis process. Mercerized cotton is generally more prone to enzymatic modification than untreated cotton
Enzymatic degumming of silk
Degumming of silk to remove the sericin is an important step. Soda-ash and sulphides used in conventional degumming process not only reduces the fabric strength but also causes pollution problem. On the other hand enzymatic degumming is a very safe and simple method of degumming. Apart from sericin the silk fabric also contain about 2% oil to facilitate weaving. Enzymes not only dissolved the gummy portion but also dissolved the oil at the same time 
Recipe:
                Papain- 6%
                Sodium phosphate- 2%
                Formic acid- 1%
                Temperature- 60 degree Celsius
                Time- 1h
                PH- 6
                MLR- 1:20
After from Papen pepsin, tropism, pectinase may be used as a proteolytic enzymes for degumming of silk. Degumming of silk can also be carried out with the help of cellulolytic enzyme (cellulose).

Recipe:
               Cellulase- 6%
               Sodium bi-carbonate- 7.5%
               Temperature- 70 degree Celsius
               Time- 2h
               PH- 8.5
               MLR- 1:20
Enzymatic scouring of cotton
To achieve good absorbancy of cotton, dirt, sizes and natural impurities are usually removed by alkaline scouring. If these impurities are not removed, can lead to the formation of AOX in the effluent when NaOCl is used as a bleaching agent. Enzymatic treatment of unscoured cotton fabric can be done with pectinase,cellulase, protease, lipase and other enzymes. Cellulases are especially suited to scouring of cotton fabrics [12]. The degree of whiteness of a cotton sample treated with cellulases only is lower by 8-10% than the degree of whiteness of alkaline boiled-off treatment. Pectinolytic enzymes can be used for enzymatic degradation of pectin adhering to cotton. Cotton fibres or their blends with other fibres can be treated with aqueous solutions containing protopectinases for 18 h at 40~ to give scoured yams with good tensile strength retention. The change in the water absorbancy of cotton is rapidly catalysed by pectinases, cellulases or their mixtures. Pectinases can destroy the cuticle structure by digesting the pectins in the cuticle of cotton. Cellulases can destroy the cuticle structure by digesting the primary wall cellulose immediately under the cuticle of cotton. By combining the enzyme treatment (a simultaneous treatment of pectinase and cellulase), or the alkaline boiled-off, with an alkaline peroxide bleaching, the total degree of whiteness is higher in combination with enzyme treatment. Cellulases break the linkage from the cellulose side and the pectinases break the linkage from the cuticle side. The result of the synergism is a more effective scouring in both the speed and the evenness of the treatment.
Enzymatic Bleaching
The enzyme Glucose-Oxidase is used in enzymatic bleaching of cotton(Bio-Bleaching).
Recipe:
           Glucose oxidase - 0.125gpl
           d-glucose - 20gpl
           Magnesium Sulphate (peroxide activator) - 2gpl
           Non-ionic surfactant (triton-x-100) – 1gpl
           Time - 120 min
           Temperature – 85oC
           MLR – 1:20
           pH – 10 


Biopolishing
Surface modification of cellulosic fabrics to improve their cleaner surface conferring cooler feel, brighter luminosity of colours, softer feel and more resistance to pilling using cellulases is often known as bio-polishing.This treatment can be applied to knit and woven cellulosic fabrics such as cotton, viscose and linen and their blends. The elimination of superficial micro fibrils of the cotton fibre through the action of cellulase enzymes is obtained by the controlled hydrolysis of cellulose leaving the surface of the fibres free and conferring a more even look. The effect of cellulase enzymes on the fabric is hairiness. After enzyme treatment the fabric improved their permanent softness and smoothness property. Further the water regain is not decreased by the enzymatic treatment. Although bio-polishing may be carried out at any time during wet processing, it is most conveniently performed after bleaching. Fabric may be treated in either piece or garment form and the treatment can be combined with another process or kept as a single operation. Controlled finishing with cellulase enzymes optimises the surface properties of the fabric, but decrease in tensile strength.
Effect of cellulase treatment in washing processes
There are three methods to remove surface fibres from 100% cotton woven and knit goods, namely singeing in the greige state and bio-polishing. The third method is home laundering the fabrics using detergent that contains a cellulase enzyme. Laundering of knit fabrics with detergent containing cellulase enzymes help to maintain a clean surface appearance and the appearance of the fabric look better even after multiple launderings.  Proteases, lipases and amylases are generally used to increase the efficacy of removal of stains. Cellulases assist in the removal of par- tabulate soils by removing microfibril from the cotton fibres, which initially form the pills and which scatter incident light. The short fibre ends emerging from the fabric surface is enzymatically hydrolysed, but an additional mechanical treatment is necessary to complete the process, to remove the fibres normally leading to pilling for example, rotating drum washers and jets. Prior mechanical agitation makes cellulosic chains more accessible for cellulase hydrolysis. The cellobiohydrolase rich enzyme mixtures produce more soluble reducing sugars, which can also reduce the indigo clue and increase back staining. In the two-step process of washing, the total loss of colour is about 20%, while the one step washing process yields a loss of colour of about 40%, under the same conditions

Stone Washing
In the stone washing process, the finished garments, whose fabric had been dyed with sulphur, or reactive dyes or indigo are subject to the eroding action of pumice stone in a washing machine in the presence of an oxidiser, usually potassium permanganate. The treatment results in uneven decolourisation, without excessive loss of fabric strength. The blue denim is faded by the abrasion action of pumice stones. wash-out and stone-wash effects can be produced on dyed jeans by subjecting piece goods to a bio-finish process with suitable cellulase complexes without pumice stone and bleaching agents. Complete or partial replacement of pumice stones by cellulase enzymes for the effect of stone-washing on denim is well established and hundreds of looks can be generated from any piece of standard denim fabric. The enzymes or combination of enzymes eliminate partially projecting dyed fibres, exposing the undyed material underneath. This forms the uneven, colour-flecked surface of wash-out article, but with no material surface damage and with an elegent fabric appearance. The surface frictions play an important role in the enzymatic decolourisation of cellulosic fabric]. The mechanical action opens the outermost layers of the cellulosic crystal, thus increasing the part of the cellulose accessible to enzymes, and allowing the enzymatic removal of the dye. The use of acid cellulases are recommended for fast treatments and neutral cellulases for more severe treatments when marked effects are required. Endoenriched acid cellulase is found to be best for easily weekened fabrics such as linen and viscose rayon. Standard whole acid cellulases are best for sturdy fabrics such as lyocell, modal rayon and heavy weight cotton .
Application of enzymes in pre-treatment processing of jute
The cellulase, xylanase and pectinase enzymes have tremendous effect on processing of jute. The treatment of enzyme before bleaching of jute improve whiteness whereas due to backstaining at optimum pH, there is decrease in whiteness and increase in yellowness index, if treatment is carried out after bleaching. The enzyme action is more on 4% NaOH scoured fabric. Scouring causes higher hemicellulose loss producing open structure and thus larger surface area of lignin is accessible to hydrogen peroxide resulting in higher whiteness.

Treatment of Protein Fibres with Enzyme
Wool Carbonisation
Vegetable matters of wool are normally removed by a process known as carbonising. Carbonisation of wool with inorganic acid may cause some degradation of the fibre. The replacement ofcarbonisation by the use of enzymes, such as cellulases, ligninases, hydrolases, lyases and oxidoreductases are reported. A biochemical alternative using complex combination of enzymes to the chemical process of carbonising with sulphuric acid is also reported. The amount of sulphuric acid required for carbonisation can be reduced by the action of cellulolytic and pectinolytic enzymes.
Wool bleaching
Bleaching of wool is necessary for the enhancement of whiteness and lustre. Using proteolytic enzymes alone or in combination with peroxide, the degree of whiteness and hydrophilicity of the fibres are increased, compared with the oxidative treatment alone. Serine protease stable to hydrogen peroxide is active in an alkaline medium and its activity increases with increasing peroxide level. Higher whiteness index is caused by the decolourising action ot" the enzyme on natural colorants present in the wool fibre.
Shrinkproofing and hand modification of wool
Wool fibres have a tendency to felt and shrink due to its scaly structure. The differential frictional effect (DFE) causes the fibre to move towards their root end when mechanical action is applied in the wet state. Generally shrinking of wool is done either by oxidative or reductive methods and/or by application of resin. The most frequently used commercial process consists of chlorination, followed by dechlorination and polymer application. Among the various processes, nickelcatalysed surface degradation by hypochlorite and the use of second generation' chlorination equipment are commercialised. Though such descaling is expected to improve the handle of the wool fibres by making them smoother, the handle is actually made harsher, perhaps because the fibres become sized by degraded protein. However, the softness of the fabric can be improved as a final application of a silicone microemulsion but expensive equipment are needed.
Conclusion
Environment friendly pre-treatment processes of textiles are the need of the day due to tremendous awareness of chemical pollution and mounting legislation to limit the chemical burden of the factory effluent. Biotechnology can be used for the treatment of wastes which can solve the problem either partially or totally. The use of enzymes in the pre treatment process can deliver the requirement of being eco-friendly as it easily degradable. Also there us no residul remaing in the fabrics after treatment process which in turn does not cause stains in the fabrics. Moreover, the use of enzymes is also time consuming.